SeanTheEvans Wineador Build Thread

[Sticky B]

So this is what the mock-drawer looked like full - I decided to add another drawer, making it 8 to my wineador, but cut out 1/2 inch on the depth, to allow for air circulation (which won't really be happening) and also allow room for fronts to go on later should I choose, along with handles.




And this is the pile of wood that cost me $50 and a quick detour on the way to visit my mom this weekend. The guy at the place was real nice too. Diamond Teak was the Spanish Cedar supplier, and I picked up 10 Board Feet locally in Sellersville, PA. I only ended up using a little over half of the wood.




Decided to make the slats for the bottoms first. Ripped the 1 inch thick wood into 3rds for the slat thickness. At this point figured I was making 7 shelves, 5 slats each. 2 Long ones, and 3 shorter. This was because I noticed that the door had to be open 180 degrees to pull the shelves out if they had slats that extended on both sides. So now the first 3 on each drawer only extend on the left, not the right where the door is hinged. The door only needs to be opened 90 degrees now to allow the drawer to come out, and it stops once it reaches the 4th slat, which extends on both sides. Pretty nice, the design is simple and suits me.








Luckily, right after starting to rip the slats, I realized that there would be a LOT of sawdust created here. So we put down some plastic to catch it all! Any suggestions of what I should keep the dust in if I want to hang it in pouches or whatever around my coolers/humis - not sure what would allow the smell to permeate but wouldn't leak dust everywhere. Also, should I spritz it down a bit?

Then after the rips, cut down wood to make the first 4 boxes.




But then Mark mentioned his new table router, and that we could make the boxes a little nicer if we want to bevel the edges. It was a lot better looking!




Starting to put the boxes together:






Here's a finished box, top and bottom:






Here's all of them, before I cut the notch for the top drawer to fit in (there's a Temp indicator that drops down from the top a bit)






Here's the finished stacks from either side so you can see the slat differences noted earlier:

Left


and Right



and here we go with all of the drawers finally in! (Top notch cut) You can see here how far they extend out before "catching" on the rear 2 slats. Enough to browse, but not enough to shift weight and fall out or anything. Yay!





I'll add some close-ups as well once the seasoning process is finished, to show a bit more of the work that went into the drawers. They are a very simple design, and are a bit wobbly still until they go into the wineador. Once in, completely stable though. Held together with some really fine nails/staples - we used an airgun for that. The drawers are just nailed together at the frames, and the slats onto the drawers. We thought about reinforcing the tops at angles in the back, but realized we didn't have space to do it above the drawer, and didn't want to sacrifice 'gar room.

NEXT POST- ONWARDS TO SEASONING!!!!!

Also - due to the length/pictures in this post - please don't quote it when replying - makes it a real B to read through the thread, ya know?

[jhedrick83]

That looks awesome!!!

[Rocket Scientologist]

Decided to make the slats for the bottoms first. Ripped the 1 inch thick wood into 3rds for the slat thickness. At this point figured I was making 7 shelves, 5 slats each. 2 Long ones, and 3 shorter. This was because I noticed that the door had to be open 180 degrees to pull the shelves out if they had slats that extended on both sides. So now the first 3 on each drawer only extend on the left, not the right where the door is hinged. The door only needs to be opened 90 degrees now to allow the drawer to come out, and it stops once it reaches the 4th slat, which extends on both sides. Pretty nice, the design is simple and suits me.

So you put the slats on the narrow edge to rip them down thinner? Isn't that kind of a dangerous cut?

[Sticky B]

So you put the slats on the narrow edge to rip them down thinner? Isn't that kind of a dangerous cut?

Not sure if the ones in the picture are fully cut (just re-checked based on table saw measurements in the photo, and those are the finished slats, they weren't ripped any thinner than that), but we cut 1 in thick slats twice, into 3 equal thicknesses, a little over 1/4 inch, as the saw cuts off some. Watched a few videos on ripping wood, some guys are amazing at it, can get long boards incredibly thin. These are as long as I ripped, and we had a "wood pusher", a long wooden block with a notch to fit onto the wood you're sliding through, and a long handle - to keep my body far far away from the blade. Having someone on the other side to receive it made the whole job easier, along with our pusher.

Here's one of the videos we found, lol, those pieces look super-thin